CS Highlight & Shadow Tool!

[Steve P]

I have just upgraded to CS from 7 and so impressed by the Highlight and Shadow tool. Now I don't have to be so careful when metering the light!

Is there anything else I should look out for. I thought 7 was pretty cool

:rockon:

[photoworks]

Steve
Very useful tool indeed it's something that was missing.
Do not overdo it though because you'll loose the black tones.
Have you try the Match Color tool too?
It gives luminance and brightness to the colors.

_________
Vasilis

[frankgh]

Yeah, if you over do it, the pictures really go flat!

[Steve P]

Thanks guys,

I know what you mean by looking flat, on one occasion I went a little mad and had to start again. Useful if careful!!

:(

[deMille]

Perhaps it's just me ... sounds like it from a lot of these posts ... but does not the time to "fix" things in an imaging program equate with metering properly in the first place? I understand there are "those times" when you may not have an opportunity to meter "dead on" but it's not that big a task and you don't have to use a make-do correction. IMHO, it is a disservice to people wanting to start out in photography to be taught something other than good exposure technique. Image editing programs/tools are a great way to expand ones' vision but ... well, no more rant ...

Dale

[frankgh]

If used correctly it can some what extend the dynamic range of the camera... just a little. :)

[Steve P]

Hi Dale,

I totally agree with what you are saying here. My old Photoshop tutor said although the program is good it pays not to get to blase! However, as good as Nikon's metering system is, it does catch me out sometimes.

Steve

[sandman]

Steve nothing can put right bad metering , the shad/high filter is great for enhancing shots ,but you can't repair blown highlights and that is the main problem on most metering issues, also if you try and lighten the shadows too much you introduce noise , so each image must be adjusted on merit .
if you have'nt already done so , click the 'show more options ' box and play around with the tonal width and radius sliders , also you can set black and white clip and mid tone .
after you've done all that , go into the 'edit menu and you then have the option to adjust the settings in 'fade shadow/highlight filter''
you're right it is a wonderful , but very powerful filter thar needs to be used with care .

Brian

[Igor]

IMO "Selective Color" is much more powerful and useful tool than the "Highlight/Shadows", which has pretty narrow useful "band", otherwise just flattens image.

Yeah, I'm a PP pro-user, and PS amateur only, beat me :) :troutsmac

[sandman]

Wont beat you up Igor , i use the ''selective'' and ''replace'' colour functions a lot , but find there use is limited , in my opinion the Highlight filter has much more use's . as for flattening an image , if you use the mid tone contrast , then finish off with the contrast / brightness sliders you can bring any image to life . As you said you are an amateur in P.S , learn it and turn into a professional. :rofl: .

Brian

[Igor]

Hmm, I might be missing something. I see the "mid tone contrast" , but where are the "contrast / brightness sliders" ?

Another thing I can't understand is when I push "Shadows" slider right the image gets lighter and pushing the "Highlights" makes it darker.
Anybody please explain to the newbee :)

[sandman]

Go into image / adjustment / ..brightness /contrast. .
the shadows slider adjust all pixels that are within a certain colour range (dark)
the highlight slider will do the same with the lighter pixels.
if the colour number is outside of the range for that particular slider , it will ignore it. i think i'm right in saying that black is 0 and white is 250 .
so i guess the shadow filter will adjust pixels in the 0-125 range and the highlight 126-250.

Brian

[Igor]

OK, I understand, but on practice I can't see SIGNIFICANT image enhancements when pushing/pulling these sliders.

Can you (briefly) lead me through your typical use of this filter? Please.

[sandman]

You're making me work tonight Igor
O.K. if you can't see any difference i'd visit an optican. :) .

before the shots here are the ''after'' settings

shadows
amount 50%
tonal width 50%
radius 159 px

highlights
amount 58%
tonal width 55%
radius 99px

mid tone contrast +17

brightness / contrast ...contrast +14.

every picture is different , these are the ones i found did the trick on this shot , which was underexposed due to the lighting conditions in this glade .

[Igor]

Thanks Brian. I really must visit the optican as I like the first one (unprocessed) better :)

[robinp]

Glad you're enjoying CS Steve, this has sparked a lively thread!
Yes, correct exposure should be our aim but until cameras get a little better at coping with real world contrast its nice to have software tricks to sort it out when we get home. Probably best to apply effect till it looks nice - then back off a bit. Maybe go and make a cup of tea & look around at something other than the monitor for a while - when you come back its easier to see how you've overdone it!

Brian, ideal image to illustrate the detail that can be brought back from the shadows (Igor, its not the optician you need but a new monitor!, or maybe you need to redo the Adobe Gamma settings in Control Panel).

For those without CS, don't despair - a similar effect can be had using "fill flash" in PS Elements, here's what it did with Brian's shot.

Cheers, Robin

[easternherp]

I can see why Igor liked the first one as the image has more depth to it but I think Brian was just trying to show the effect of the filter which he has done well. He has managed to lighten the shadows and darken the highlights so that the difference between them is less, as your eyes may have seen the shot, but it does leave a flat looking image with no real contrast.

[sandman]

Spot on Andrew ,i would'nt normally lighten the shadows so much , but i would darken the sky and part of the hillside to show the folds and creases in them .
However i did'nt use much contrast and that would have livened up the shot ,but also darkened it as well . so it's a balancing act of very subtle adjustments to get the exact effect you're after , and remember it's the printed photo that you're after , so i always give it a bit more than you can see on your moniter.

Brian