Suggestions?

[Roadking8]

First I would like to ask if it is possible to get nearly the same results from a common camera flash mounted remote on a tripod as you would from the studio type flashes with a softbox? If it's possible to get good lighting effects, I can get dual purpose from the camera type flash by only carrying the extra tripod and longer sync cord.

Second, assuming the flash is normally mounted on a bracket grip (high and to the left) connected via hot shoe sync, and sometimes used on a remote tripod as described above for side lighting, can you recommend the flash? The Nikon SD80 DX, and Metz 54MZ keeps coming up. I want to retain TTL capabilities even though they may not be useful ultimately.

Third, does anyne have experience with the Quantum 4i radio slave for those times when I want to impress everyone with my lack of money or can't find that long sync cord?

Road

[memobug]

You can shoot many shoemount flashes through a softbox or umbrella and certainly get similar quality light that you would have with a similarly diffused monolight or studio pack. The strength would certainly be less though.

Try here for the clamp

http://www.photoflex.com/photoflex/index.html?products/default.asp?product=shoemount&1

The appropriate softbox would be a westcott Apollo type that mounts just like an umbrella, You could of course use an umbrella, too.

http://www.fjwestcott.com


Without the softbox, the effect would be very different, harder and much more directional. Remember the size (and distance) of the light source, and directionality are important. You can use a shoemount flash on a lightstand with a stofen style diffuser and get a bare bulb effect

Expect to lose at least 1.5 to 2 stops of light through the softbox, maybe more if you point the flash towards the back, foil side for even softer illumination.

The softbox will block the flash's auto sensor, so you'd need to fire it manually (which is usually how it's done) or use an extension cable (e.g. Nikon SC extension cable) to maintain TTL.

I haven't used the Quantum stuff. Is the FreeWire their new system? I use pocketwizards and fire the strobes in manual - non-TTL.

Regards,

Matt

[Roadking8]

Thanks...helpful links. I see where you are going with the clamp and Wescott stuff. I was hoping a less-invloved Stofen diffuser or one of those pillow-looking things could do and be less "busy". Basically I was hoping for a flash unit with a filter or box diffuser. All I have read agree with your exp comp. The Metz 54MZ-3 (with Stofen) states a +2 compensation. They seem bright enough to lose that much.

I have seen the Freewire but don't think it is Quantum. It may not be radio either. But the Quantum and Pocketwizard are the two I am debating. Pocket wizard sat3es up to 1600' wheras Q is 350'. PW has an antennae on both pieces where Q only on the receiver. PW sticks up tall but is less "radio shack" looking. I expect either can use rechargeable Nimh for the AA part?

Help me understand something basic. How does TTL differ from PC in operation? I ask because the Metz has full wireless TTL capabilities. I thought a radio just did on/off stuff like an optical but with more reliability. Help me understand the difference betweeen these two connections. How does a TTL wireless-capable flash differ from a regular on if both are used remote?

Road

[memobug]

Stofen will behave much as a bare bulb, which depends on having reflective surfaces around (walls, ceiling, light colored surfaces & clothing). Without those, there isn't any barebulb effect. Softboxes can be large and cumbersome but you do get a great light quality.

PC is just a connector style, like a household or vivitar connection. PC connectors typically only carry the FIRE signal, not TTL fire/quench signals or more sophisticated proprietary info like ISO and lens focal length settings to zoomable flashheads. Some flashes can do TTL over wireless IR links. Nikon's SB-80 for example, (and shoe mountable IR receivers can be used with other nikon strobes) to cause them to trigger and quench exactly in unison with the on-camera (or hard wired off-camera) main flash, giving the effect of slaved TTL. Canon has a similar system, and I think there was a granddaddy Minolta system that had it first with the IR built right in to some of their SLRs.

Pocketwizards are microwave RF sync systems that carry only the fire signal, so ttl isn't a possibility. They simply replace the pc cable. Quantum's new multichannel, RF Freewire supports TTL with Quantum Qflash and modules. Each Freewireunit can be configured as a transmitter or receiver, and they have antennae. Higher end Pocketwizards are also similarly androgynous, but none offer TTL. Here's Quantum:

http://www.qtm.com/wireless/freewire.html

and Pocketwizard:

http://www.pocketwizard.com

Pocketwizard compatibl RF plugin modules are available for certain sekonic meters, buy one and get a module under promo.

http://www.sekonic.com

Mamiya is also putting wizard modules in some of their Profoto flash pack systems and has plans to introduce it in cameras, too.

Personally, I don't use TTL much, and never on my slaved flashes. When you know what you want, manual or limited auto modes will give more control. When you don't know what to expect, either because of rapidly changing conditions, subject movement, (or plain operator ignorance) TTL can be very helpful. But IR based systems will depend on line of sight, and TTL is manufacturer-dependent. I use Metz 45, Qflash or Sunpak 120J on auto or manual modes, mounted on light stands, triggered by Pocketwizard Plus units, with the transmitter mounted in the camera's Hotshoe or connected to its PC connector.

Pocketwizard Plus batteries last several days continuous:

"The transmitter and receiver each require two AA batteries (included) and provide uninterrupted use for 250-hours."

I just use alkaline AAs. NiMH don't have good shelf life (high self discharge current)

http://www.pocketwizard.com/HTML/plus.asp

[Roadking8]

Matt, thanks for all the suggestions. After finishing my 1st shoot, using an sb80dx with TTL cord (limited length), no onboard flash, available room light, I realized some things.

First, I need to be able to move my flash more than the 5' TTL cable allows. I can get a 30' TTL cable made but it will cost $180+. The Pocketwizard or IR devices will help, but that is pretty expensive. I never found a device that worked with the Nikon flas that did both fire and quench. Also, I felt as if I needed as many as four lights.

Second. The four light angles I needed were a diffused main, a weak opposing fill (could be reflection off white card from main), and two for background lighting. Perhaps these four could be reduced to two if I use a reflection off the main for fill and a wider, softer single light for background.

Perhaps my answer (today) is to just use some long standard PC male-to-PC male cords to connect all. On the main light, use a silver/black embrella (reflection), or all white embrella (shoot thru) to diffuse the main light. Position a white sheet to hopefully catch enough from main to provide fill. Make sense? Then I could play with backlight settings. This type rig would require less $$$ initially. What do you think? Only problem is that this puts a big burden on the main to shine thru or reflect from an embrella while also being bright enough to reach the fill white card. Lighting is everything.

Road.

[memobug]

PC cords or inexpensive "peanut" sensors to photoslave your flashes would be fine, you'll just lose TTL. Personally i don't think that's a big loss in a controlled environment such as you'd have with multiple flashes and bounce cards.

If you actually need TTL with multiple offcamera nikon strobes, you'd need to use either a wired setup with the three wire SC-18 or SC-19 Nikon cabling and a slew of AS-10 Multiflash shoe adapters, or a wireless setup with the more sophisticated IR slaving of the SB80/SB50/SU-4 Slave flash adapter (http://www.onecall.com/PID_5217.htm)

Regards,

Matt