Just got one!!!!!!!!!!!

[scotgasch]

I have just ordered my S2 and can't wait to get it. I have a few questions though.

1. Will only the "d" and "g" series lenes support the distance information? I have a Tamron 28-200 that I used on a backup Nikon 8008s. Will this one communicate properly?

2. ......well now that i have registered and started this thread I can't think of the rest of my questions. I'll be back!!!!

[scotgasch]

BTW how do you get those custom avatars

[Tim]

The "G" and "D" lenses do supply distance information to the camera, but it is only used for 3D matrix fill flash operation. All other modes will work just fine without the chip with AF lenses.

With older lenses like AI and AIS, the metering is not functional at all, and an external meter must be used.

Congratulations!

Tim

[scotgasch]

Is the 3d matrix fill flash that important?
What are it's benefits?

Thanks

[memobug]

1. What is it?

The 3D Matrix theory is that the camera knows the subject is nearby (or far away) and so will not blow out a nearby subject by trying to illuminate the distant background too much.

2. Does it work?

It works pretty well as a fill flash technique, but if flash is the primary means of illumination of a nearby subject in a dark environment with nothing else nearby , the subject will probably get blown out anyway, IMHO.

3. Is it important?

Maybe. It depends on what and how you shoot.

Regards,

Matt

[Wichita Wayne]

Thanks Matt! Your last post just made me realize why I had strange results at a recent wedding. The flash exposed for the wall behind the subjects, and washed out the two subjects that were close to the camera. The Hasselblad/Metz shots did not suffer from this problem. Sometimes I wonder if we are doing ourselves a favor by moving to digital. The Hasselblad/Metz setup rarely ever fails to deliver great results, and it is very fast. If I set the 'Blad lens on F-11 at 15 feet the thing is virtually a point and shoot camera at weddings.

[Joe Peoples]

I've almost given up on TTL flash (with either my sb-24 or sb-80) on the S2 and opt for "A"/Slow on the flash, camera on Manual, so I can toggle Aperture and Shutter Speeds. The exposures are consistent this way and I make adjustments much more quickly than using the exposure compensation button on top of the camera.

[ali]

I find myself playing with the flash levels all the time. I have a problem keeping close subjects from getting overexposed when using my 80DX with large apertures eventhough the subject was metered by the camera and flash. I wonder if there is a point-and-shoot solution for moving subjects in dark environments.

[jknights]

I use my S2 with a Vivitar 365 and also with a Elicar auto ring flash.

I always set camera to Manual mode.
For Vivitar 365:
Shutter speed to 1/125 and adjust aperture to fstop my desired fstop.
For fill in I decide ratio 1:4 usually.
Set flash to auto mode and use controller to adjust f stop to my desired fstop. (f2.8--f32).
For full flash set the fstop on the controller to the fstop chosen on camera.

For Ring flash - Macro work or some studio work.
Shutter speed to 1/125 and adjust aperture to fstop either f8 or f11 my usual working fstop.

Leave it all to flash.

Always works fine - film or digital. In rare cases you get problems. I have used this for weddings, parties, portratit etc. for the last 25 years. Hardly any failures.

The strobes with auto control seem to work better than the new cameras with all singing/all dancing and mostly getting it wrong flash control. Maybe they have two left feet in the controller :-)

I think the new D-TTL is even worse. Fuji are using the old reflective TTL not D-TTl for the S2 so this is more like useing the TTL flash feature on a F5.

Can't beat a real brain and experience !!

[scotgasch]

I agree the best is doing it manually and let the flash do its thing.
I shoot my weddings with a bronny and vivitar flash. ALL MANUAL!!
usually I set it at 60th @ 5.6-8 unless of course I am shooting outside!! Then set my flash for 1 stop under.....perfect exposures every time!

[deluco]

I use the S2 with a Nikon SB22s and when shooting direct (not bouncing) and TTL I have to back off on the exposure by 2 or more stops.

For whatever reason the camera consistently over-exposes TTL regardless of the meter setting.

[ali]

I tried some softboxes for my 80DX at my camera store and found one that decreased the flash just right so close subjects are not overexposed. My "instant" digital camera friends are laughing at the complexity my digital camera has become. It's like carrying around a miniature studio strobe.

[Joe Peoples]

...so is Consistency; that 's why I use Auto on the flash and the diffusion cap/Omni for subjects up to 8' away from the camera. Past that, I use direct flash. I shoot hundreds of photos at each event and having to make under or over exposure corrections defeats the purpose of shooting digital. Unless you like the diffusion that the softbox gives you, give up on TTL if it's not working for you, or strap a Norman 400 to your belt for the extra juice you'll need to shoot across the room.