Nikon "version" of the MP-E65...

[SiHing]

Hi!

I'm trying to be a more active member again, but the only thing I can (hopefully) contribute is about Macro shooting, so here's a little writeup about a way to create an inexpensive Nikon macro zoom lens, going from 1:1 to 3:1 (higher with tubes, TCs):

[if the embedded images don't work for you, please follow the links]

I use a modified Canon MPE-65 lens on my SA-mount cameras and have always wished for a similar solution for F-mount bodies - a powerhouse zoom for reproduction ratios beyond 1:1.

One easy and rather inexpensive way to get something remotely similar (with still good IQ), is to use a lens reversal setup consisting of at least following components:

Nikkor Ais 28-50/3.5 zoom lens
Nikon BR2a reversal ring

With these and a flash setup you are set to shoot from ~1:1 to ~ 3:1 - add tubes (an inexpensive set of manual Ai/Ais tubes will do; I use a set of Vivitar tubes or a PN11) and you can go beyond that - the downside of going beyond 3:1 is the very short working distance and the difficulty of getting your flash power to where you need it to be - also, the built in flash (of an S5) will vignette when going wider than ~31mm without tubes as well.

If you are more of a convenient shooter (like myself) and don't want all the hussle of shooting moving bugs with cumbersome stop-down operation, you can add more components, such as:

Nikon BR-6 ring
Nikon AR-10 double cable release
Nikon MC-25 (in order to use the AR-10 on your S5)
Nikon right-angle or magnified eyepieces

I like to use a Nikon Pistol Grip with a modified (unfortunately not by me, so I can't give specifics here) double-release cable for even more convenient field shooting. One can also use a BR5 ring (or other generic step-up/down rings for other lenses with larger/smaller filter sizes).

To give you an idea on how such a setup consisting of a 28-50 reversed right on the body using a BR2a, together with a BR6 and an AR-10 looks like, here are quick and dirty shots of everything stuck onto my trusty F3P (depicted with a DG-2 eyepiece and a lens hood, which is best taken off for most macro shooting, because of lighting issues that may occur when left on):

http://www.pbase.com/image/103833835/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/103833835

The boring talk aside, here are some quick samples with this setup (with a single 36mm tube in the first), using basic manually controlled lighting (built-in flash or a single SB800/Metz MZ54i):

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103746313/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103746313

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103590112/original.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103590112

Maybe some will find this useful; otherwise, nevermind! ;)

Regards
Alex

[Igor]

Great setup and superb results, Alex! :clap:

[SiHing]

Thank you, Igor! :)

Hope you're doing fine!

Regards
Alex

[jhawk1000]

Beautifully done.

Mel

[Tom V]

I can't get that close to a fly with a fly swatter, how do yo get so close with a photography contraption?

[BadpicKev]

http://www.linkdelight.com/index.php/Viewfinders/View-all-products.html

[BadpicKev]

a cotton swap and Gatorade

[Auminer]

May I use that word "Awesome"? :righton: Especially the first one...what is it? :cool:

[SiHing]

Thanks everyone! :)

Tom, my secret to getting close is actually pretty simple - it consists of ultra-slow movement, strategic positioning (e.g. next to plants I've watched my subjects feed on before). Also, most of my very close shots are of feeding critters.

The nice thing about a simple reversal setup is, that it is also possible to reverse some nice primes for even better IQ at a certain amount of magnification - I love the old Sigma 24/2.8 for that purpose, as it is a very sharp lens. The same goes for the Voigtlander 40/2 II (that works nicely when moutned regularily on a PN-11 as well!).

Here are a few more reversed shots on an S5:

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/102164597/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/106042866/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/102021502/original.jpg

The following two were done by simply holding a lens to the body in reversed position and shooting a single hot-shoe mounted flash into a reflector, because I did not have all my gear at hand - high ISO (for macro) as well (hence the slight drop in IQ):

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103062552/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/magma_photography/image/103109014/original.jpg

Regards
Alex

[Tom V]

Very nice shots!

My eyes (all of them) aren't what they used to be. Focusing is an issue for me. Thank goodness and Japan for autofocusing.

I imagine it's very dark in the viewfinder - how do you focus? My guess is that the focusing collars are not used, rather, you move nearer or farther from the subject. Does the AF confirmation (dot in the viewfinder) work?

[SiHing]

Hi Tom!

Focussing is indeed done by leaning back/forth (I always focus like that for macro shots btw). When using the double-release setup described below, it is possible to focus wide open, which helps a lot (the only true reason why I use this reversal technique on a regular basis).
The bee shots were done without the help of this technical aids, so the finder was indeed very dark (direct sunlight helped). I wouldn't want to shoot like that for long either.

I think that the focus indicator works, but I'll double-check on that.

Regards
Alex

[chris72]

This is incredible macro photos, I like macro but I don't know how to do.
Again, best :goldcup: