Vivitar 90mm f/2.8 macro lens

[Igor]

Another older N/AI macro lens that goes to 1:1 reproduction ratio by its own (no ext. rings).
Not as sharp as Tamron analog (different construction too), but quite acceptable for the $70 price IMO.
What it really lacks is Nikkor saturation and contrast, which is evident on some shots.

All test shots with D2x body and sb-800 flash.

[corneliaB]

outstanding!!! Did you only use one flash? do you have it set up on a bracket?
could you please share your set up? I'm looking into getting a SB800 flash
and possibly a second dslr, most likely a D70s. :)

[Igor]

Thanks Cornelia.
I use the SB-800 on top of the camera, no bracket, but with a pillow diffuser/softbox attached. It dissolves the harsh flash light very well for macros especially.

Shoot in M mode for camera, 1/200 or 1/250 shutter and f/16 - f/25 for lens.
Flash is also in M mode, mostly at full power (1:1).

As for the second body, consider the Kodak SLR/n, the prices dropped recently, but the camera is outstanding for macro work especially.

[corneliaB]

Thanks, Igor, I'll look into it. I appreciate your sharing of your shooting technique. Do you use the Sto-fen on your flash for difusing?

[Igor]

It has no label/name on it, just a small semi-transparant inflatable pillow, approx. 20cm in diagonal.

[snapshot69II]

Great shots as usual. You make some of jealous. How do you make these insects to stay still long enough to focus and get the proper exposure?
Using a 90mm macro and getting that close means the lens must be right on top of them. Using a 200mm macro, possibly with extension tubes, would provide at least a certain amount of distance that the insect wouldn't fly away.

Thanks.
Gary

[Igor]

Thanks Gary.
90mm is quite OK for getting close, 55/60mm is really hard to :)
Just make no sudden moves, approach steadily and you'll get as close as you want to almost any bug.
Focus is mostly set to closest minimum (about 30cm in this case) so there's no need to focus with ring, just approach and get the subject sharp in the viewfinder.
As for exposure, I usually take a couple of test shots before shooting, also soot RAW which gives me +/-1 EV for later fixing in RAW shooter.
You're right , 200mm f/4 gives better distance, but camera/lens shake gets more serious also, you need a good staedy hand...

[Benison]

Igor, the following is an understatement :rockon: :beerchug: :cheers: :goldcup: :D :guzzle: :rockon: :righton: :D :cheers:

[Igor]

Thanks buddy :)